Limerence Update # 16

February 17-19, 2001

Puerto Quetzal, Guatemala

Guatemala Inland Tour

Dear Friends,

It was fun to discover the beauty and rich history of this small Central American country. Guatemala was the center of the Mayan civilization and an important capital of one of the three largest Spanish territories in the Americas. It is a country of contrasts – the traditions and language of the Mayan people, and the Spanish influence in cities like Antigua. Within the Guatemalan territory, the Mayan’s greatest cities flourished, center of commerce and culture for the Meso-American region. Guatemala City itself is built on the ruins of an impressive Maya city known as Kaminaljuyu. No one knows precisely why the Mayan civilization collapsed, but the Guatemalans of today retain many of the cultural traits associated with their ancestors.  The agricultural traditions were evident as we toured the countryside – farmland patches on the sides of the mountains tilled by hand, and campesinos moving along the roadsides with huge loads of wood and sugar cane on backpacks.

 We decided to travel with friends Ernie and Barb Taylor, and hired a driver/tour guide to take us on a two-night, three-day overview of Antigua and Lago Atitlan.   As we drove away from the Port of Quetzal we began to climb immediately toward the green mountains and stately volcanoes.  Within 30 minutes we rolled the windows down and enjoyed a 15-degree drop in the intense heat. We stopped in several leafy parks with small museums filled with artifacts from the Mayan culture, and the Olmec civilization which pre-dated the Mayans. The Olmecs were the first to construct pyramidal buildings and their techniques were passed on to the Mayans. The Spanish conquest of Guatemala’s Mayan people began in 1524 and the Mayans succumbed not only to war but to the diseases brought by the Spaniards.  It was a surprise to learn that 40% of the population today still speaks a Mayan language and no Spanish at all. These people faithfully use the Mayan calendar which guides them in decisions about when to plant, harvest, pray or sell their products. The planting of corn and the weaving of clothing on back-strap looms are traditions that persist. It was both stunning and an exciting step back in history to see the villagers in their colorful clothing working the fields and walking along the roadway in village after village.

Antigua, Guatemala is a popular tourist destination because of the lovely colonial architecture, fine hotels, and outstanding Spanish language schools.  We found a simple hotel located steps from the central plaza which featured a mermaid fountain in its center.  Municipal buildings built in the 17th century and a Cathedral built and rebuilt from 1543 to 1680 surround the square. Besides tourists, there were lots of students lounging on the wrought iron benches studying, men with shoe shine boxes hawking for business, and local women selling their hand woven scarves and artifacts. We soaked up the atmosphere of the walled colonial construction, colorful facades, and lovely flowers of Antiqua – set against a backdrop of volcanic mountains.

The next day we drove toward the central highlands of Guatemala and stopped to see the Iximche ruins in the Maya-Cakchiquel town of Tecpan.  Iximche was founded by the Cakchiquels in 1463, about 80 years before the arrival of the Spaniards.  The ruins are stunning – surrounded by ravines and pine forests. The Spaniards became allies with the people in the Iximche area, then double-crossed them demanding gold.  The Cakchiquels revolted and fled their city after burning it, instigating a guerrilla war that lasted five years. Today Iximche is a place for worship and we watched Mayans lighting copa fires and saying prayers among the temple ruins. Elsewhere on the grounds families enjoyed a Sunday outing, and we observed two birthday fiestas.

Later in the day, we drove up into the mountains to Lake Atitlan.  It was reminiscent of Lake Tahoe – A pristine brilliant blue lake surrounded by volcanoes. It was formed when a volcanic caldera collapsed 85,000 years ago.  We stayed in Panajachel, a laid back place with good restaurants and lots of places to shop for Guatemalan crafts. We could easily spend several days exploring this refreshing area.

Returning to Limerence in Puerto Quetzal, we were surprised to find five more cruising boats. However, we were all dismayed by grime and soot covering our boats from a sugar cane burn that was whipped by high winds.  An overturned fishing boat was leaking smelly diesel throughout the harbor.  We looked forward to checking out of Guatemala and setting sail for El Salvador.

We reprovisioned Limerence, picked up our laundry which had been washed by hand, line dried, and ironed, and went to the Port Captain’s office to check out. New fees somehow got levied by immigration, and our total cost for one week in Guatemala was $160.00. The fees for checking in and out of countries, and methods for obtaining Zarpes – or check out certificates – vary widely depending on what officer is in charge that day. The Guatemalan Navy was extremely kind to us and we departed the country with the satisfaction that we were one of the few to take the time to tour this lovely place. <p>

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