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Limerence Update # 17 February 26, 2001 El Salvador, Central America GPS Coordinates: 13d15’83N 88d29’14W Air: 89º Water 79.5º
We hauled anchor at 8:30am on 2/21 and departed Guatemala. Four other boats in the anchorage left hours before us: Lady Tamora, Seclusion, Nauti-RV, and Germania. We had radio contact throughout the 29 hour passage, and ultimately all entered the Barillas Marina in El Salvador at the same time.
As always, we set the mainsail for a passage, and motored out of the harbor. Soon we had 15 knots of wind from the south, pulled out the jib sail, and enjoyed a pleasant southeasterly sail for five hours. It is a relief to turn off the engine and sail at 6-7 knots . . . we had a nice following current pushing us along. There was a 3-4 foot chop, but we were very comfortable. As the afternoon wore on, the wind died to a few knots, and we motored for the remainder of the evening. The chop turned into swells and my plans to make a chicken dinner changed as I felt only motivated to heat up some soup. After months cruising we never feel seasick, but moving around below in a swell makes one feel like a monkey. The less tasks the better. Starting at 8:30 PM we began our sleeping shifts of 2.5 hours on, and 2.5 hours off.
The night was very dark – no moon – but the stars shone brightly and the air was very warm. We sailed about four miles offshore and could see the lights of land. Two boats passed us at midnight – Harmony and Slip-Away. They were heading northeast back to the States after completing a circumnavigation. It was fun to talk to them on the radio.
Dawn brought bigger swells and we were surprised to have southerly winds over 10 knots. Usually the pattern is – sea breezes during the afternoon, and light land breezes in the morning. By 8:00 am we were motoring in steep 5-7’ swells with the wind on the nose. We were less than 20 miles from our destination, but it was going to be a long morning. We now had our four buddy boats within sight of us and everyone looked like bucking broncos. The wind continued to build and the seas became very confused. We took several waves over the top of the dodger, and were busy concentrating on managing the boat.
Our destination was the Barillas Marina in Bahia Jiquilisco which is west of the Bay of Fonseca in El Salvador. Cruisers are still discovering this new marina which is set on a river in Bahia Jiquilisco. The opening is impossible to see from the ocean and we were told to call the Marina on channel 16 one hour before we got to the first waypoint on GPS, and they would dispatch a panga to guide us in.
As we neared our waypoint, we were buzzed by a lowflying Cessna 170 which circled us several times. The pilot is Juan Wright, the developer of the Barillas Marina, and he was giving us a friendly greeting. Soon we saw a panga galloping through the ocean headed toward our little caravan of sailboats. He signaled us to follow him as he slowly turned through the large seas toward the coastline. As soon as we turned downwind, the boat calmed down and we headed to shore. It was a spooky feeling to thread our way past breaking water on both sides of Limerence, and make our way over shoal water of 10-25 feet.
Minutes later we were passing small villages as we entered the river lined by mangrove trees. Flocks of white egrets and blue heron flew past us; the river was a tropical jungle paradise of calm, after a roller coaster ride from Guatemala.
After an hour, we entered the mooring area and a panga driver assisted us in picking up a mooring ball. Barillas Marina is a beautiful compound with a small tienda, snack bar, rock swimming pool, laundry facilities, and 5000 foot airstrip. The friendly staff will arrange inland tours, shopping excursions to the nearby town of Usulutan, internet connections for computers, and mail service. We have found a lovely place to relax and hopefully get our dinghy problems resolved. There are 25 cruising sailboats here now.
The cruisers in Barillas have adopted a town of 60 people who lost their homes in the recent earthquakes. They have negotiated with landowners to have a small parcel of land given to these poor people, so the homes that are rebuilt are actually on their own land. This result is a big deal . . .These people have worked the land for over 50 years and never had any hope of ownership. The cruisers are working several days a week up in the hills rebuilding homes, and giving aid to the people. We will participate in this effort, and give more information after we see the village ourselves.
Our plans are to spend a number of weeks here, then make our way south to Costa Rica. We are very happy and doing well. . . enjoying meeting new people everyday.
Best wishes, Captain Doug and Faithful Siren Judy |
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