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Limerence Update #24 Passage to the Gulf of Nicoya, Costa Rica 9d39N 84d39W Air temperature 89º Water 83.5º May 2001 We began this leg of our cruise with the mainsail double-reefed and with a full jib. At 6:00AM the winds were easterly from the land at only 10-15 knots, but we anticipated higher wind as we approached Cabo Vela. Our friends on Capaz sailed ahead by three miles, and Pacific Pearl was a mile or so in front of us. We could see their sails on the horizon, in the sparkling sunshine. Capaz called on VHF radio and alerted us that the winds picked up as expected near Cabo Vela. We were ready. . . suddenly we experienced strong gusts at over 35 knots. The seas were small at 3-4 feet and there were white caps everywhere. Limerence heeled over and as the gusts continued we reduced the jib sail by pulling the roller furling in halfway. The boat roared along close-hauled at about 7.2 knots. It felt perfectly balanced. We disconnected the autopilot, and Doug hand steered so he could anticipate the heavy gusts and keep Limerence from heading up too much in the strong wind. Within two hours, the whitecaps suddenly disappeared and the wind calmed to 15 knots and clocked around to the southwest. We pulled the jib out all the way, and adjusted the sails to a port tack close hauled. We noticed a 1.5 knot counter current and our speed dropped to 4.5 knots. Capaz called again on the VHF and gave us a “heads up” that he was becalmed! Sure enough, we had to pull in the jib and start the engine within the hour. Getting these advance weather reports is a benefit of buddy-boating! By 3:00 PM as we passed Punta Giones the current became favorable and the winds picked up to 12 knots from the northwest. . . on our starboard beam. This is one of the most comfortable points of sail . . . it’s like gliding on an escalator towards your destination. At dusk, 6:00 PM, we dropped anchor in Bahia Carrillo. The mountains shimmered purple in the setting sun, highlighted by the vivid green of the royal palms lining the sand beach. There was a light swell in the anchorage so we dropped the dinghy in the water and deployed our aft anchor to hold us into the current.
Capaz Crew Capaz and Pacific Pearl moved on first thing in the morning, but we decided to stay another day or so and explore the village. We took a short hike up the hill to the Hotel Guanamar and had a delightful lunch in their poolside restaurant overlooking the bay. We decided this place is one of the most picturesque along this coastline. The rest of the day we cleaned the grass and barnacles off the bottom of Limerence, by donning snorkel gear and using elbow grease. Friends on Double Dragon pulled into the anchorage that evening so we had company again! The next morning we both prepared to leave, and Double Dragon motored out first. As we hauled anchor our “engine overheating” alarm sounded, so we did a 180º and dropped the anchor again. The fresh water inside the engine had leaked out, thus overheating the engine. Our friends called on the VHF radio to find out what happened, and returned to the bay and dropped anchor to lend assistance. The rest of the day was spent with Doug and Bruce diagnosing the problem and taking the engine apart several times. The fresh water pump had a crack in the back of the casing, which Doug mended with a miracle cure called “Liquid Steel”. All boaters should have this product in their tool kit.
Double Dragon Underway Early Sunday morning we both finally departed Carrillo and made our passage south around the southern tip of the Nicoya Peninsula into the Gulf. Double Dragon motored east to Herradura, while we sailed north to Bahia Ballena. After dropping anchor in the early afternoon we noticed threatening rain clouds piling up on the horizon, and within two hours we had our first rain shower in five months! We danced around on the deck like natives experiencing a gift from the gods!
First Rain of Season The next morning we had a boisterous twenty mile sail across the Gulf to Punta Leona. It is a lovely anchorage that looks remarkably more lush and verdant than the west side of the Peninsula. That afternoon we landed the dinghy onshore and hiked the grounds of the Punta Leona Hotel and Beach Club. It is a friendly family oriented facility with pools, restaurants, and hiking trails throughout the large private reserve. We spied large wood storks fishing on the beach, and flocks of White Ibis. Costa Rica is teeming with exotic birds and wildlife. On May 1 we had a short five-mile sail south to Herradura where we had a slip reserved in the new Los Suenos Marina on the eastern corner of the Gulf of Nicoya. This pristine gulf lies halfway down the Pacific coast of Costa Rica. It is a rugged bay of islands and picturesque anchorages. There are many places to explore including several national parks and bird sanctuaries. The Rio Tarcoles region in the Gulf of Nicoya is the line of demarcation for the dryer northern part of the country, and the lush rainforests of the south. Near the coast of Nicaragua the average rainfall is 60”, while the southern border experiences 220” . . . so one really becomes aware of the heat as the latitude descends! We have decided to spend the summer here and use this marina as a base for inland travel. Even though May marks the beginning of the six-month “green”, or rainy season, we expect less rain and humidity than the southern part of the country. Costa Rica and Panama lie outside of the “hurricane” zone, and experience variable weather with frequent rains. We are already hot, hot, hot. . . but feel this is the best solution for the next few months. We have rented a car for the duration and are enjoying the amenities of a Marina. When we need a “cruising” fix, we plan on dropping the docklines and sailing to an anchorage in the Gulf. Fair winds friends, Captain Doug and Judy |
