Limerence Update #34


Columbia Inland Trip

Cartagena, Columbia

November 25, 2001


 

The notorious South American country of Colombia borders Panama. Tucked into the northwestern corner is the historic walled city of Cartagena.  Colombia has earned the reputation as one of the most dangerous countries in the world because of rampant kidnappings and drug trafficking, however the charming port city of Cartagena lies blissfully isolated from crime and attracts many tourists. We decided to fly there for the Thanksgiving and join in with fellow cruisers to celebrate the long weekend.

 

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Doug and Judy

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Cartagena Santa Domingo Church

 

Cartagena has a long Spanish colonial history of defending properties in the Caribbean including a major assault on the city itself from the English in 1740. After several attempts at independence from Spain, Cartagena finally won freedom in 1821, and Simon Bolivar gave the city the name La Heroica, the Heroic City.  Today the walled city boasts cobblestone streets and plazas, museums, churches, shops, hotels and fine restaurants. One can wander for hours up and down the narrow streets and discover intimate gardens and courtyards behind wrought iron doorways . . . inviting you inside for a peek!

 

Several friends have their boats docked at the Marina Club de Pesca. It is a modern secure facility adjacent to an authentic Spanish fortress with the most spectacular views of the harbor. There is also another facility called Club Nautico, plus an anchorage in the inner harbor of Cartagena Bay. Because Cartagena is a cruise-ship destination full of many tourist attractions, there is a wide selection of shopping opportunities including fantastic emerald shopping, Colombian coffee, cigars, and hand-crafted souvenirs. With the white sand beaches of the Caribbean, and the historic city to explore, Cartagena offers much to do for cruisers who decide to visit.

 

We joined in the Thanksgiving celebration at the home of Lee and Pachy Miles who graciously hosted a party for over 30 family and cruiser friends.  Lee settled in Cartagena over 25 years ago and operates several stores in addition to publishing a guide to Cartagena called “Destination Cartagena”.  We feasted, told stories, talked politics and economics, and enjoyed the company of old friends and new.

 

Colombia is the world center of the wholesale emerald market, and Cartagena is loaded with shops, small factories, and street vendors all claiming to offer the best quality and best deals. We learned a little about carat weight and value, color, light and sparkle of emeralds from several shops. We decided to buy several pieces of jewelry and looked up Jesus O’Campo of Casablanca Designs who has made a reputation for fairness among cruisers. His small factory is difficult to find behind huge wooden doors on a side street near Plaza Santa Domingo. Inside sat Jesus at his desk with five or six piles of emeralds in front of him that he perused and selected with tweezers. As he showed us his wares, he explained that he custom-makes all his jewelry with 18-carat gold, and all pieces come with a written certificate of quality and guaranty.  We decided to have him make three pair of earrings - one for me, and one pair each for our daughters-in-law, Debra and Barbara.  I made a few sketches, selected the emeralds, and ten hours later we picked up our earrings!  The experience was certainly unique for us and we had confidence that Jesus treated us well.

  

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Emerald Shopping

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Jeweler

  

Flying back to Panama from Cartagena took about an hour, and we reflected on our wonderful weekend. The Colombians we spoke with are anxious for Americans to learn more about their country, and hope that we become more sympathetic to their situation. They are struggling with crime and kidnappings, and there is no an easy solution at hand.  We have decided that once in the Caribbean, we will sail back to Cartagena on Limerence and stay at the Club de Pesca.  Learning first hand about other cultures, history and politics, and talking directly to the people, is one of the most enriching parts of cruising.

 

 

 

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