Limerence Update #42

Cartagena, Colombia
Summer 2002
10d18n - 75d35W
Temperature Air 94 - Water 83 - Humidity 86%

Our 200-mile overnight passage to Cartagena Colombia was picture perfect. By the end of May the persistent northeasterly trade winds finally abated. The change was rather abrupt. For months Limerence was at anchor facing northeast, pulling gently on the rode in the strong current. We tracked the weather daily for our cruiser's net, and expected the opportunity to make the passage to Cartagena sometime in May. The coastline of Colombia and Venezuela can be one of the most dangerous passages in the world because of the high winds, currents, and waves. Moving east along the coast is impossible until spring.

We tentatively circled the last week of May on our calendar for our departure. One Saturday morning we woke up, and Limerence was facing south! The water was dead calm. Suddenly after months, your house turns around, and the view is out your back door. It is a very disorienting sensation. The wind shift that day was our signal to get moving. We sailed with the full moon two days later to Cartagena.

Our trip was fast. We covered nearly 200 miles in thirty hours. When we were at the entrance buoy to the harbor, we hailed "Cartagena Pilot Control" and asked the officer for permission to enter. After spelling Limerence - Lima, India, Mike, Echo, Romeo, Echo, November, Charlie, Echo, and giving our destination of the Club de Pesca Yacht Marina, and declaring we are a United States flagged vessel, we were given permission to enter. "Welcome to Cartagena" boomed the heavily accented Colombiano pilot control officer. What a thrill to be sailing into the most beautiful city in South America.

Following our charts we sailed through the Boca Chica harbor entrance, and counted off the numbered buoys as we made our way through the harbor. We passed several large container ships underway, and approached the Club de Pesca. Reservations are not taken, but we were assured by e-mail that we would get a slip. When we hailed the Club we were told in Spanish that there was no room. It was difficult to understand the security personnel who spoke NO English. We gingerly motored Limerence around in circles in the murky seven-foot water and I repeated our request several times in Spanish for a slip. POR FAVOR!! The Dock Master soon answered our call, and miraculously we were directed to a med-moor type slip. Doug drove Limerence between two pilings as I frantically dropped fenders and heaved lines to the dock. Colombian workers ran up and down the wooden dock grabbing lines and yelling incomprehensible Spanish. They carefully helped us secure Limerence between two large powerboats. Our docking was NOT picture perfect but we were safe!

Shortly after we were secure, the Club de Pesca called an agent to check us into the country. We turned over our passports and zarpe and were issued a temporary permit to get off the boat. The next day we went with the agent to immigration and got our visa and passport stamp. The fees were about $50 and all went smoothly. We are checked into Colombia for 60 days, and then in July have to return to immigration to renew our visa.

Cartagena sits on the Caribbean coast of Colombia surrounded by 11 kilometers of walled fortifications. The inner bay is stunning. Despite the resistance of the Caribe Indians, the Spaniard, Pedro de Heredia, began building the city in 1533. Because of its strategic location on the South American coast, Cartagena was the port chosen for restocking the Spanish galleons before they returned to Spain with treasure, munitions and food. The city was also one of the major slave-trade market places. For several hundred years, Cartagena was the most influential trade market in the Americas. The community not only exported gold and jewels to Europe but imported luxury items produced in the Old World. Many forts were built by the Spanish to defend their strategic city. Cartagena was a wealthy and luxurious place even as it came under constant attack by the French, Italians and English. After many years of bloody battles, Cartagena was granted independence from Spain in 1821. For its early calls to arms and its repeated sacrifices during the struggle for independence, Simon Bolivar gave to Cartagena the name: La Heroica, the Heroic City.

The Club de Pesca Yacht Marina is built around the fortress San Sebastian del Pastelillo. We see forts and barrier walls in all directions from our slip. We are on a picturesque canal overlooking Centro - the historic old town center. There is often a breeze, but Cartagena is hot, hot, hot. We bought a 5000 btu air-conditioner for the boat and it has made a world of difference in our comfort. The daily temperature is over 90, but the boat is cool and dehumidified. We hired a boat worker who has scrubbed our stainless steel with a toothbrush, and brought Limerence back to Bristol condition. The Club de Pesca is a friendly secure place and we are fortunate to have a slip. The main dock is under reconstruction and guest slips are scarce. There is another marina close by, Club Nautico, which is a favorite hangout for cruisers. We visit often to see old buddies. Our good friends on Angel and Germania II are docked there for the summer.

Almost daily we take a five-minute taxi ride to CENTRO, or old town. To us, Cartagena has the charm of a European city. Museums, cobblestone streets, balconies laden with flowers, ornate facades, historic churches, and charming restaurants make the place irresistible! After months in the remote San Blas Islands, it is a delight to explore the city and enjoy fine dining. Prices are very reasonable. A gourmet dinner for two with a bottle of wine is less than $30.

Colombia has been struggling for years with drugs, civil war, and a government resistance group, FARC, which is an organized business of kidnapping individuals for ransom. We have been told that FARC issues an "identification" card to anyone who is abducted and pays a ransom. The card is a passport of sorts for the future to show to any potential abductors that you are OFF-LIMITS. You have already paid the price. Despite the reputation of Colombia, the City of Cartagena is a refuge and we feel very safe. Our marina has four armed guards around-the-clock. No one can walk in without identification. Every street corner has several armed military personnel. There are checkpoints throughout the city and the strong presence of the police is very evident. Travel throughout the gorgeous country of Colombia is very dangerous, and sadly there is little tourism.

This month the Colombianos elected a new President who takes office in August. He is politically independent and the people are very hopeful for change. The long history of corrupt government, drugs, bribery and kidnapping presents huge challenges for anyone hoping to make progress. It has been interesting to talk to the local people and get their perspective on the politics of Colombia. The economy is suffering because of the drop in tourism and general negative world opinion. The feeling here is of optimism after eight years of political corruption. President-elect Uribe just named a well-qualified and respected woman to the position of Secretary of Defense, who will be responsible for negotiating with FARC. If she is successful, it will be a positive step toward rebuilding confidence in Colombia.

Cartagena is a photographer's dream, a gourmet diner's heaven, and a historian's delight. We will be here until late fall waiting out the summer hurricane season. There is plenty to keep us busy as we discover the beautiful city of Cartagena, Colombia.

Fair winds friends,
Judy and Doug

        More Travel Logs                                         Home