Limerence Update # 50

Isla San Andres, Colombia

12d 34.619’N – 81d 41.545’W

Temperature Air 87F – Water 80F

 


April and May are idyllic months before the rainy season begins in the tropics, and the winter storms from the north subside. The trades settle a little and at times blow more from the east, with relatively calm seas. We found a settled weather window at the end of March and made our 220-mile run to Isla San Andres, northwest from the Panama Canal. It wasn’t hard to say goodbye to Colon Panama. The city of Colon is the gateway to the Caribbean, but is economically in transition and far from lovely. We did enjoy the company of many cruising friends during our stay and used the services in nearby Panama City for all sorts of errands. The Cruise Ship Terminal in Colon has a good grocery store, internet cafe, shops and fitness center that we used. Because of a nasty virus, I had the opportunity to use a private clinic in Colon, which was professional and helpful. Otherwise, Colon is unfortunately a place people can hardly wait to leave.

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  Favorite Colon Cabbie - Joseph       Avenida Central - Colon   Typical corner in Colon Panama

We plan to cruise our way to Florida over the next two months, stopping along the way throughout the Northwest Caribbean. We expected a forty-hour sail from the Canal Zone to Isla San Andres, Colombia. The island lies a hundred miles off the coast of Nicaragua, but is owned by Colombia. After bashing for two hours to get through the confused steep seas and strong north winds that converge in the canal basin, Limerence finally settled down and found her groove. The wind blew twenty knots from the east-northeast and we immediately felt a current pushing us along. Limerence was doubled reefed with a full jib on a starboard tack, cruising just under seven knots. We were flying!! We left Colon at 3pm on Thursday, hoping to make landfall in San Andres early Saturday morning. Our friends Al and Sandy on the sailing vessel Sandy Lee, followed us from Colon later in the day.

During our passage the seas were calm, winds steady, and with no moon. . . the stars were bright. Limerence continued for hours to chug along like a speeding train. Even though we tried to slow her down, we arrived in Isla San Andres before dawn making a record 35-hour passage. We had a bit of excitement during the second night when the battery low voltage alarm went off and we had to start the engine to keep our systems operating - radar, computers, autopilot, navigation lights, and radios. After recharging for six hours, the engine sputtered and stopped! This is no big deal, but slightly inconvenient to clear out the aft cabin, and change the fuel filter in the middle of the night while underway. We have decided that the filter size selection for high sulfur South American fuel was too small, and in the future we will put in a new filter with a larger particle rating. We also replaced our aging gel cell batteries in San Andres with truck batteries. We’ll get new gel cells in Florida. If night passages are uneventful, you are indeed lucky.

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   Al and Sandy - SANDYLEE    Patricia and Don - RAGTIME Katherine & Craig - SANGARIS

On our morning Panama Connection Radio Net, we heard friends on Sangaris and Ragtime check in as “underway” from the San Blas Islands of Panama to San Andres. We agreed to contact each other several times on the SSB radio during our mutual cruise, as well as check in with Sandy Lee. We never saw anyone until we were all “hove to” Saturday morning waiting to enter the reef-strewn harbor. It was a help to have Sangaris as the leader of the fleet, carefully picking the way through the red and green channel markers into the beautiful harbor of San Andres Island. Our friends, Deb and Rob on CAVU had arrived the day before and had the welcome mat out.

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  Limerence on anchor in Isla San Andres     Beautiful clear water and beach beauties

 Picture an island surrounded by a fringing coral reef, gin-clear water of all shades of blue, a charming colorful town with friendly laid back islanders, smart shops with duty free prices, and beach front restaurants. That’s Isla San Andres. You have the conveniences of a small town with an airport, grocery stores, movie theaters, clothing stores, internet cafes, and a local fishing fleet offering huge lobsters and fresh fish. Much of the island is undeveloped thus preserving the natural beauty of the sea and land. The majority of the island people live along the southern coast road in typical Caribbean clapboard houses painted all colors of the rainbow. San Andres is a unique and beautiful gem in the Caribbean Sea.

We have settled in for a few weeks and are anchored in front of The NauticoYacht Club that offers services to cruisers passing through. We are able to keep up on news and watch CNN on their television and use the club facilities. They have a wonderful restaurant, pool and tennis courts. We rented a golf cart one day to explore the island, and another day we toured on motor scooters with Deb and Rob. It is amazing to see the ocean side of the island with crashing aqua colored surf, as opposed to our tranquil protected harbor inside the reef.

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Our pals - Deb and Rob Morgan      Island tour by scooters    Nervous Judy getting pointers

Paradise was interrupted on Tuesday. The friends we arrived with in San Andres, Sangaris and Ragtime, had pulled anchor and moved out on Sunday afternoon heading several hundred miles northwest to the Bay Islands of Honduras. It is a passage that requires careful navigating because the Nicaraguan coast near Cabo Gracias a Dios is littered with coral reefs and shoal waters. They both reported in on the SSB radio on Monday that all was well. However, we got a distress call early Tuesday morning from Ragtime. They were stranded aground on a coral reef! It happened late Monday afternoon. They made a mayday distress call which was picked up by a ham radio operator in Florida. He called the United States Coast Guard, and the ship MOHAWK was dispatched from nearby in the Caribbean. Within hours the Coast Guard was on the scene. They stayed in the area with Ragtime for 24 hours while Don and Patricia struggled to free their boat. By now, Sangaris was 130 miles west and unaware of the grounding of their buddy boat.

It was a harrowing experience for our friends on Ragtime. We were in contact with them every few hours throughout the day. Finally, Tuesday afternoon Ragtime lifted just enough to be pulled off the reef by the powerful RIB launch of the Coast Guard.  Ragtime survived without serious damage. It is unclear how the accident happened, but Ragtime went aground at 15d 12.5N and 82d 40.9W, which is in the middle of the Media Luna Reef. As I write this, Don and Patricia are safely underway to Roatan Honduras. Since the incident, it has been discovered by cruisers examining their charts, that at least several charts numbered 28130 are defective and off by fifteen miles! Cruisers must be aware that there can be defects in any charts, paper or electronic. We have all learned a lesson and are shaken by the unfortunate accident of Ragtime.

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Limerence at Panama Canal Yacht Club                      Dolphin escort

 Our cruising community is a unique blend of people, who must solve the mundane problems of keeping all systems operating onboard, while navigating and charting a safe course through a frequently inhospitable water environment. Most of the time we work as a team – never knowing when you will need the help of a fellow cruiser. Part of this lifestyle adventure is the unexpected! We appreciate the comments many of you have written in our guest book. Thanks for following our adventure.

 Fair winds friends,

Judy and Doug

   

 

 

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