Limerence Update # 50
Isla
San Andres, Colombia
12d
34.619N 81d 41.545W
Temperature
Air 87F Water 80F
April and
May are idyllic months before the rainy season begins in the tropics, and the winter
storms from the north subside. The trades settle a little and at times blow more from the
east, with relatively calm seas. We found a settled weather window at the end of March and
made our 220-mile run to Isla San Andres, northwest from the Panama Canal. It wasnt
hard to say goodbye to Colon Panama. The city of Colon is the gateway to the Caribbean,
but is economically in transition and far from lovely. We did enjoy the company of many
cruising friends during our stay and used the services in nearby Panama City for all sorts
of errands. The Cruise Ship Terminal in Colon has a good grocery store, internet cafe,
shops and fitness center that we used. Because of a nasty virus, I had the opportunity to
use a private clinic in Colon, which was professional and helpful. Otherwise, Colon is
unfortunately a place people can hardly wait to leave.
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| Favorite Colon Cabbie - Joseph |
Avenida Central - Colon |
Typical corner in Colon Panama |
We plan to
cruise our way to Florida over the next two months, stopping along the way throughout the
Northwest Caribbean. We expected a forty-hour sail from the Canal Zone to Isla San Andres,
Colombia. The island lies a hundred miles off the coast of Nicaragua, but is owned by
Colombia. After bashing for two hours to get through the confused steep seas and strong
north winds that converge in the canal basin, Limerence finally settled down and
found her groove. The wind blew twenty knots from the east-northeast and we immediately
felt a current pushing us along. Limerence was doubled reefed with a full jib on a
starboard tack, cruising just under seven knots. We were flying!! We left Colon at 3pm on
Thursday, hoping to make landfall in San Andres early Saturday morning. Our friends Al and
Sandy on the sailing vessel Sandy Lee, followed us from Colon later in the day.
During our
passage the seas were calm, winds steady, and with no moon. . . the stars were bright.
Limerence continued for hours to chug along like a speeding train. Even though we
tried to slow her down, we arrived in Isla San Andres before dawn making a record 35-hour
passage. We had a bit of excitement during the second night when the battery low voltage
alarm went off and we had to start the engine to keep our systems operating - radar,
computers, autopilot, navigation lights, and radios. After recharging for six hours, the
engine sputtered and stopped! This is no big deal, but slightly inconvenient to clear out
the aft cabin, and change the fuel filter in the middle of the night while underway. We
have decided that the filter size selection for high sulfur South American fuel was too
small, and in the future we will put in a new filter with a larger particle rating. We
also replaced our aging gel cell batteries in San Andres with truck batteries. Well
get new gel cells in Florida. If night passages are uneventful, you are indeed lucky.
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| Al and Sandy - SANDYLEE |
Patricia and Don - RAGTIME |
Katherine & Craig - SANGARIS |
On our
morning Panama Connection Radio Net, we heard friends on Sangaris and Ragtime
check in as underway from the San Blas Islands of Panama to San Andres. We
agreed to contact each other several times on the SSB radio during our mutual cruise, as
well as check in with Sandy Lee. We never saw anyone until we were all hove
to Saturday morning waiting to enter the reef-strewn harbor. It was a help to have Sangaris
as the leader of the fleet, carefully picking the way through the red and green channel
markers into the beautiful harbor of San Andres Island. Our friends, Deb and Rob on CAVU
had arrived the day before and had the welcome mat out.
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| Limerence on anchor in Isla San Andres |
Beautiful clear water and beach beauties |
Picture
an island surrounded by a fringing coral reef, gin-clear water of all shades of blue, a
charming colorful town with friendly laid back islanders, smart shops with duty free
prices, and beach front restaurants. Thats Isla San Andres. You have the
conveniences of a small town with an airport, grocery stores, movie theaters, clothing
stores, internet cafes, and a local fishing fleet offering huge lobsters and fresh fish.
Much of the island is undeveloped thus preserving the natural beauty of the sea and land.
The majority of the island people live along the southern coast road in typical Caribbean
clapboard houses painted all colors of the rainbow. San Andres is a unique and beautiful
gem in the Caribbean Sea.
We have
settled in for a few weeks and are anchored in front of The NauticoYacht Club that offers
services to cruisers passing through. We are able to keep up on news and watch CNN on
their television and use the club facilities. They have a wonderful restaurant, pool and
tennis courts. We rented a golf cart one day to explore the island, and another day we
toured on motor scooters with Deb and Rob. It is amazing to see the ocean side of the
island with crashing aqua colored surf, as opposed to our tranquil protected harbor inside
the reef.
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| Our pals - Deb and Rob Morgan |
Island tour by scooters |
Nervous Judy getting pointers |
Paradise was
interrupted on Tuesday. The friends we arrived with in San Andres, Sangaris and Ragtime,
had pulled anchor and moved out on Sunday afternoon heading several hundred miles
northwest to the Bay Islands of Honduras. It is a passage that requires careful navigating
because the Nicaraguan coast near Cabo Gracias a Dios is littered with coral reefs and
shoal waters. They both reported in on the SSB radio on Monday that all was well. However,
we got a distress call early Tuesday morning from Ragtime. They were stranded
aground on a coral reef! It happened late Monday afternoon. They made a mayday distress
call which was picked up by a ham radio operator in Florida. He called the United States
Coast Guard, and the ship MOHAWK was dispatched from nearby in the Caribbean.
Within hours the Coast Guard was on the scene. They stayed in the area with Ragtime
for 24 hours while Don and Patricia struggled to free their boat. By now, Sangaris
was 130 miles west and unaware of the grounding of their buddy boat.
It
was a harrowing experience for our friends on Ragtime. We were in contact with them
every few hours throughout the day. Finally, Tuesday afternoon Ragtime lifted just
enough to be pulled off the reef by the powerful RIB launch of the Coast Guard. Ragtime survived without serious damage. It
is unclear how the accident happened, but Ragtime went aground at 15d 12.5N and 82d
40.9W, which is in the middle of the Media Luna Reef. As I write this, Don and Patricia
are safely underway to Roatan Honduras. Since the incident, it has been discovered by
cruisers examining their charts, that at least several charts numbered 28130 are defective
and off by fifteen miles! Cruisers must be aware that there can be defects in any charts,
paper or electronic. We have all learned a lesson and are shaken by the unfortunate
accident of Ragtime.
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| Limerence at Panama Canal Yacht Club |
Dolphin escort |
Our
cruising community is a unique blend of people, who must solve the mundane problems of
keeping all systems operating onboard, while navigating and charting a safe course through
a frequently inhospitable water environment. Most of the time we work as a team
never knowing when you will need the help of a fellow cruiser. Part of this lifestyle
adventure is the unexpected! We appreciate the comments many of you have written in our
guest book. Thanks for following our adventure.
Fair
winds friends,
Judy and
Doug
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