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Limerence Update 55Barcelona SpainNovember 2003Lat. 41d22N Lon. 02d11EWhen you put
dock lines on the boat for at least six months, your “cruising” boat becomes
more like a small apartment. A lamp appears on the salon table, real glasses are used
daily, the galley becomes more “gourmet”, and the Internet is available in the
comfort of your navigation station. On Limerence, we then pour a glass of champagne and
congratulate ourselves on our good luck. How fortunate we are to be able to become
residents of Barcelona – not tourists!
This city is
one of the most accessible from the marina. We have the Museu d’Historia de Catalunya
steps from Limerence, and the historic fishing neighborhood of Barceloneta as home. The
Metro subway and buses are modern and simple to use, running every few minutes to all
parts of the city. Every time we venture off the boat we find a new plaza, church, quaint
shops, fountains and restaurants, hidden away down the cobblestone streets.
Barcelona is
an eclectic mix of ancient Gothic and Romanesque buildings, orderly suburbs designed and
built in the mid-1800's called the Eixample district, and finally the modern and bizarre
architecture of the 20th century that shocks and delights. The modernism image
of Barcelona is closely associated with the architect Antoni Gaudi (1852-1926). His
designs are throughout the city in the parks, buildings, and churches. His creative view
of the world is astonishing. Think of colorful tile mosaics, sinewy and daring pillars,
ornate spires and undulating walls – it’s Gaudi’s creation.
The weather
here in the winter is mild, considering the latitude of 41d north. The days are almost
always sunny and bright with temperatures in the low 60’s. At night it is cool. . .
down to the 40’s. It never snows – so they say! After three years in the
tropics, we have had to buy jackets, sweaters and gloves. Lightweight clothes are packed
deep away until spring. The cruising
community wintering over in Port Vell and Port Olympica is well over one hundred boats. We
have organized Spanish lessons, watercolor classes, cultural tours, tap dancing, sight
seeing to nearby villages, movie outings, and weekly coffee klatches. There is a morning
VHF radio net where we exchange information about services, products, and social events in
the city.
We have enjoyed some cultural events like the Opera – “Maria Stuarda” performed in the sensational Theatre Liceu. The hall is renown for the fine acoustics, producing sound that is sublime. We marveled at the “Messiah” presented in the ornate Palau de Musica hall. We booked these tickets to get in the "holiday" mood! One of our favorite restaurants is the historic Los Caracoles - beautiful food and service to match. Many tourists hang out along the huge pedestrian boulevard called the "Rambla". It is filled with cafes, flower stalls, bird and pet stands, and entertainers. There are strolling musicians and human "statues" that are bizarre actors frozen in position. The traditional “Sardana” is danced every Sunday in front of the nearby Cathedral. The simple country dance is performed by the neighborhood people of Catalan.
A word about the food of Spain and what surprised us! The wine is
great and cheap. Almonds, olives and olive oil, are superb. The most intriguing to us are
the Serrano hams - Jamon. This isn't the watery boiled ham we ate on Wonder bread. The
best Serrano comes from the grayish-black swine of Iberica, specifically the Jabugo area.
These hogs graze They are presented that way because a visual determination when buying is essential: "a thin, tapered calf; plus well-worn hooves, showing it's free range. The meat itself should be well-integrated with fat, indicating the purity of the Iberian race." (quote from Francesc Roma, Director of Meson de Cinco Jotas.) Vegetarians might feel queasy in Spain.
Despite all
the foods and culture of Barcelona, we still miss home during the holidays. The cruisers
in Port Vell organized a wonderful Thanksgiving dinner at a nearby restaurant. We taught
the Chef how to make roasted turkey and stuffing, sweet potatoes, mashed potatoes and
gravy and cranberries! The art glass centerpieces were crafted by Tracey on
"Marney" in the style of Gaudi! It was quite an event with entertainment
after dinner by a cruiser band called the “Ramblers”. It was almost as good as
Mom’s dinner!
We have been
invited by friends to join their family in Provence France, for the Christmas holidays.
We’ll drive to Arles for two days, then onto Aups and Villecroze in Provence.
That’ll be our home base as we explore the small French villages during the week
between Christmas and New Year’s. Have a safe,
healthy and prosperous New Year! Doug and
Judy
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exclusively on acorns and aromatic herbs.
The curing is natural. The leg is packed in sea salt, then rinsed and put in a ventilated
cave and hung for 2-3 years. The product must be sliced by hand with great care. The
priciest Serrano is around $200 per kilo. We bought six thin slices for $24 because it was
something we JUST HAD to do! It was rich and tasty. . .however it is still unnerving
to see the hams lined up in the stores with their hooves up in the air like dancers frozen
in point. 
