Limerence Update 59

Cruising the coast of Southern France

Lat.42d12N Lon.05d32E

June 2004

The Mediterranean Coast of France is made up of five regions. Starting in the west bordering the coast of Spain is Languedoc-Roussillon, then Provence, West and East Cote D’Azur, and finally the Riviera. All except the Riviera are influenced by the Rhone River valley, which produces the tramontane winds. Under certain conditions, these northwest winds rush down the Toulouse Gap between the Pyrenees and the Massif Central. The “tramontane” howls frequently and relentlessly, building up a vicious sea quickly. We kept a close watch on the weather as we made our passage along this coast and across the wide Golfe du Lion. Wisely, the French government constructed purpose built marinas along this eastern coast to provide the yachtsman some shelter. The marinas aren’t historic or particularly beautiful, but they provide beaches and resorts for tourists and safe haven for boaters.

 When we decided to coastal cruise France and Italy, we knew we would be spending most of our time touring villages, soaking in the atmosphere of street cafes and people watching. While there is more sailing in the Med than you have been told, we came here expecting to cope with the crowds and to discover what the culture offers.  People have been extraordinarily kind to us. The French have been helpful, friendly, and jovial. From the stately chateaus and forts, to the achingly beautiful colors of the Provencal countryside and the sun drenched topless nymphs on the beaches, France offers a distinct culture that appeals to us very much. And oh la la. The food! More on that later!

Collioure France	Chateau des Templiers	Fort Bear

 The prettiest place offering everything one would want is Collioure France. We first made landfall there after leaving Spain, and motor sailing around the rugged Cabo Creus and Cap Bear - looking docile that particular day in June. An essential tool for anyone cruising the Mediterranean is Rod Heikell’s Mediterranean pilot books. He spent over twenty years compiling detailed information on each anchorage and marina, with diagrams and color photos in systematic order. We find them accurate and indispensable in our planning. Our entrance into Collioure was exactly as described by Heikell. We anchored in front of the ancient fort in the tiny harbor. The yellow balls designating the swim areas were still being laid. We were pre-season! The water was surprisingly cold – 65 degrees. 

Gardian house in Saintes-Maries de la Mer	Flamingoes of Saintes-Maries de la Mer

After a few days at anchor in Collioure, we made an overnight passage across the Golfe du Lion to Port Gardian. The Golfe is notorious and passages must be carefully planned. The first thirty miles we experienced a strong swell, but almost no wind. The seas calmed after awhile and we settled into Port Gardian, or Saintes-Maries de la Mer, the following morning. This harbor and surrounding lands are the flat plain of the Rhone River. The golden colors of the salt marshes filled with pink flamingoes are luscious. This area is also the home of the white horses of the Camargue protected by the Gardian cowboys. The village attracts gypsies every spring who make a pilgrimage to the church of their patroness, Sarah. The town is lively with shops and the gypsies had a low profile when we were there. The wind blew hard for a few days and we wished it would stop. But, when it did. . . .oh my. The starving noseeums bugs that live in the marshes descended on the town looking for meals. We were eaten alive. My bites lasted three weeks while Doug boasted that he had not one! I must taste sweeter. Noseeums are called “flying jaws”. 

French Carousel	A carousel in every city!	White horses of Camargue

We escaped Port Gardian to Port du Frioul. Less than a few miles from the entrance to Marseille lie two rugged white rock islands called the Iles du Frioul. They recently were bought from the French military by the city of Marseille and they are planning to build a large leisure complex over the next years. A German cruiser recommended we stay there to escape the crowds of Marseille, and take the thirty-minute ferry ride into the city. We hiked the islands after sightseeing on the “Little White Train” in Marseille and spent two comfortable days with views of the old city across the harbor. Marseille is a handsome old city with a rich history that is somewhat sad. My Father was here during WWII when he was a Captain in the US Army. We had a wonderful French lunch served by a colorful French waiter.

Marseille Harbor	White Tourist Train

 The wind began to blow as we left Frioul, and we made a quick passage to a nearby calanque. This stretch of the French coast is steep limestone with fjord-like inlets carved by winter torrents. The sides are steep and offer protection from the seas produced by the area's high winds.  We stopped in the Calaque Sormiou. It truly is spectacular with crystal clear aqua water and a small beach. After a few hours on anchor in thirty knot winds, we decided to move onto the village of Cassis just five miles east.. 

Biggest dog in France!	Iles du Frioul	Judy hiking Port Frioul

We entered the Cassis harbor late Friday afternoon and lucked out to get the last slip! If you tried to describe a perfect authentic French town, Cassis would be it. The tiny harbor is nestled between rough mountains and offers the most picturesque village. It is still our favorite place because it was so tiny and authentic. This would be our last stop in magical Provence. Now, on to the Cote D’Azur!

 Fair winds friends,