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Limerence Update #61July - Sept. 2004Italian RivieraThe Italian
Riviera, or Ligurian coast, sweeps in a semicircle from the border of France to the Gulf
of La Spezia. The bustling harbor of Genoa divides the Riviera and is the second largest
seaport in the western Mediterranean. Most Americans know Genoa as the birthplace of
Christopher Columbus, who is remembered as one of the greatest seamen of his time. Genoa
also is the city that generated some of the finest sea charts in the old world. We
bypassed Genoa because our guidebook noted, “you will probably leave the harbor
nursing a headache from the noise and fumes”.
We motor
sailed in flat seas and calm winds up the western Italian coast toward Genoa, stopping
twice along the way in typical modern marinas. Since we dawdled in France, we thought it
best to move along toward the mountainous southeastern coast of Italy - the Riviera
Levante - where we expected to slow down again. We sailed in very light wind most of the
thirty miles across the Gulf of Genoa, because our fresh water engine pump was leaking and
we wanted to conserve the engine. We only dodged two large cargo ships and the afternoon
was sunny and uneventful. Our destination was the ritzy Golfo Marconi with the ports of
Portofino, Santa Margherita and Rapallo. Doug later removed the pump, sealed it, and
voila! The leak ceased. With
protected anchorages few and far between along this coast because of the deep water, we
have learned to phone ahead for slip reservations. Our first choices were totally booked
because it was a Saturday, so we paid a premium ($102E) for a “larger” slip in
Rapallo/Carlo Riva. The wind picked up to
twenty knots as we entered the large bay on approach to Rapallo, and suddenly we were in
the midst of hundreds of boats. . .tour boats, sail boats, dinghies, wave runners, mega
yachts, and sport fishing boats going in all directions. The sea was frothing and confused
with activity.
Within a few
miles we entered the modern swank new marina and we were waved away. “Turn
around!” “No room!” We yelled back to the two dock men that we had
“reservations”. The magic word. After consulting their clipboards, radioed the
office, and finding LIMERENCE miss-spelled, they smiled and pointed toward a pontoon
several hundred yards away. Even though we paid too much for the larger slip, we were
happy and relieved to be moored in a marina as a thunderstorm erupted within two hours.
It’s always nicer to be at a secure dock when the wind howls and lightening crashes.
. . even if it’s only a short lived squall. Once
Limerence is secured at a dock, and we are registered with the officials, we jump on our
bikes and explore. What Rapallo has
preserved its medieval center, which is framed by green slopes and rock faces on one side,
and the blue Mediterranean on the other. It has a genteel laid back elegance. It was here
that we noticed Italian women wear BOTH pieces of their bikini bathing suits . . . not
just the bottom as in France. What a cultural difference a country border makes! On Tuesday,
we decided to motor a few miles south to Portofino. Getting a slip in the tiny harbor at
the end of July was a long shot. We had a sudden rain shower that lasted less than fifteen
minutes as we motored to the entrance. We called the Port Captain and made our request.
After thirty minutes, he granted us access as the sun broke through the clouds! What luck!
Portofino is the quintessential Italian port with old colorful buildings, and laundry
hanging from the windows. It’s the picture we are all familiar with on display in
most travel agencies. It is an aristocrat of a resort for the jet set. Limerence was
tucked in the corner of the marina facing the village. Wonder how many tourists took our
picture, as we were now part of the scene?
We took a
long hike over the woodsy ridge of the peninsula to Castello Brown, which is a handsome
old villa now dedicated to the community. At the end of the point is the Portofino
lighthouse with stunning views of the Mediterranean. The only down side to this fairy tale
was in the evening when ten or so huge mega yachts squeezed into the port and obliterated
the lovely view. I suppose the mystery of who is aboard adds to the glamour, but somehow
it seems more appropriate for them to anchor out and keep the tiny harbor pristine. One
yacht reported to the Port Captain that there were 27 crew on board and four guests. Oh la
la. Our
neighbors on the dock were lovely people from London who have vacationed in Portofino for
twenty years. They provided juicy gossip and wonderful tidbits about the rich and famous.
By Thursday the Port Captain reminded us that the marina was booked for the weekend and we
must be on our way!
With a
bulging bag of laundry, and a list of boat jobs to be done, we stopped next in Lavagna to
do chores. The marina is modern and tidy with lots of chandleries and boat builders,
however the town of Lavagna lies on the other side of the railroad tracks and is rather
unremarkable. There were miles of dark sand and pebble beaches as is typical of the
Italian coastline. The promenade along the coast makes a nice bike trail. The full moon
over the weekend added what charm it could to the lackluster area. Mentioned by
our British friends as a “must do” place, we stopped next twenty-five miles
south in Portovenere on the edge of the La Spezia bay. We lucked out again to be granted a
slip in the tiny harbor. Portovenere is like a stepsister to Portofino. Is is equally
charming and picturesque, but without the movie set feel of its rich relative up the
coast. We loved the area, but Portovenere proved to be the nosiest harbor we’ve
experienced – not people, but church bells! The
church which was perched several hundred yards from Limerence, clanged bells every fifteen
minutes, 24 hours a day! And, who can figure out why the bells clang sixty times at 7am???
The recorded bells were on steroids.
We dropped
the dock lines on Wednesday and motored across the bay to a quiet anchorage. It was lovely
with a view of Portovenere, the castle and fort, and the church bells tolling in the
distance! We met another American boat – “Traumerei” with Kathy and Frank.
Seeing an American flag is so unique, we always rush over to greet one another. They told
us wonderful stories about their cruising experiences. Around the
anchorage were rows and rows of sticks in the water. Were these some sort of pilings or
remnants? We got our answer the next morning when we woke up to the clank clank clank
noises of mussel farmers harvesting the racks of rope that hung heavy with mussels in the
water between the sticks. We’ve been eating farmed mussels since France, and now we
finally see what the “farms” look like! Later in the
afternoon the skies darkened and the wind picked up. It looked very threatening. Ferries
rushed back and forth through the anchorage and the harbor traffic was as busy as usual.
It got very quiet before 6pm; all traffic stopped, and appeared as if the storm had moved
on. Suddenly we saw waterspouts and serious looking dark weather across the harbor. Within
minutes it was on us! The severe wind gusts made the anchorage look like the movies where
helicopters swoop down churning the sea. People were rushing to tend their lines, and one
fellow slipped off the bow of his boat as he pulled up the anchor. His crew motored slowly
around him in the maelstrom as he struggled to swim in the gale force winds. With relief
to all, he was brought aboard in less than ten minutes. Limerence’s
Bruce anchor finally pulled through the weedy bottom and we dragged in the forty-knot
winds across the harbor grabbing a ferry marker buoy on the way. Judy – deck woman
– cranked in the anchor on the windlass and released the yellow buoy easily. Doug drove back to the corner of the harbor and we
dropped anchor again in stormy conditions. Fortunately we found a clay and mud spot in the
midst of weeds, and the anchor set well. Within ninety minutes the storm passed and we had
a quiet night. And people think we are on vacation all the time!
We looked
forward to Viareggio since we had been there five years earlier on a cruise, and it was
our gateway city to Florence. It is a popular and crowded summer resort. The real
fascination is with the Benetti and Lusben boatyards that build the largest yachts in the
world. Walking past monster private ships under construction is humbling. Where does all
the money come from? We explored as usual on our bikes – up and down the beach coast
and through the city. During our
five-day stay in Viareggio, we rented a car and drove a short distance to Pisa. The Piazza
dei Miracoli with cathedral, leaning tower, museums and vaults, was stunning. The tower is
open for tourists to hike up after being repaired by reinforcing the ground on the low
side. It is partly cloaked at the moment as it is being cleaned. That didn’t detract
from the pleasure of strolling around the huge green piazza.
Within two
days, time to move on again. We motored out of Viareggio harbor making sure not to bump
the bottom. The entrance of the marina is badly silted and we did go aground when
entering. Our two-minute struggle to free the keel was enjoyed by the sightseers fishing
and strolling along the break wall promenade. Next harbor was 30 miles south in Rosignano
– Cala de Medici. With calm
seas and light winds, we again motor sailed to our destination. The town of Rosignano is
typical beach resort, but the village just five miles north – Castiglioncello is very
cute with some nice shops and cafes. We did become fond of a local restaurant called
“Hemingway’s” on the beach near the marina. On Friday we
experienced another huge windstorm. The skies were sunny and clear, but the wind howled
steady at 30+ knots and built the shallow seas into a caldron. The break walls of the
marina were easily thirty feet high, and the spray from the sea crashed over them. We had
to close our boat windows (in the marina!) as we were covered with salt spray. The power
of the sea was spectacular, and many people stood watching from the promenades. The
restaurants all closed their decks and all chairs and tables were removed. The entrance to
the marina was untenable as ten-foot waves crashed from side to side obliterating the
opening.
Now
mid-August, we ordered our mail forwarded from San Diego to Rome, and made an overnight
passage to Porto Turistico di Roma in Ostia. We were looking forward to resting after
three months of travel, and doing some sight seeing in Rome. The swank new marina is less
than one hour from Rome and offers a lot to the cruiser. We’d read in our SSCA
Bulletin several glowing letters from cruisers who stayed in this marina and raved about
it. They spent two seasons here. A mall along the docks services the marina with almost
one hundred shops and cafes. There are several boatyards in the area. There are large
grocery stores in Ostia and all the services of a medium-sized city. The Rome airport at
Fiumicino is only minutes away.
Once we took
the fifty-minute ride on the train into Rome and saw the Colosseum, Trevi Fountain and
Spanish Steps. . . we decided to stay. Wouldn’t it be a treat to explore Roma this
winter after all the sweaty tourists have gone home? In September, we will cruise the
Pontine Islands near Naples, and return here to Porto Turistico di Roma for the winter. We
have plans to go back to the States for the holidays, and Limerence will be safe and
secure here for the time we are gone. Our plans to cruise to Turkey will be put off until
next year. We are lucky to have such rich choices! Fair winds
friends, Doug and Judy
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would we do without them? They give us the
ability to see villages without adding wear and tear on tired old knees. We bought
“Brompton” folding bikes that are made in England. They collapse to a small
package that can be stored below deck when we travel. We use the basket to haul groceries
and supplies.
