Limerence Update #73
April - May 2006
Cruising the Ionian Islands, Greece
 Before starting our cruise, we spent six
weeks in Corfu primping up the boat, working Judy’s new knees by bicycling, learning
croquet, and simply enjoying the island before the summer tourists descend. Limerence
amazed us by performing almost perfectly as we tested our gear after the damp winter. The
wind instrument coughed and failed and was replaced by a quick order to Athens. Otherwise,
everything works. . . including the water maker, auto pilots, radios, lights, radar, and
outboard engine. We dare not say this too loud and press our luck!
Greek Orthodox Easter is a huge celebration and fell on April 23rd,
a week after Easter in the USA. Lambs roasting on open air spits and mayeritsa soup made
of (gulp!) lamb’s innards are delicacies savored on the holiday. Every where were
loaves of plaited bread with red dyed eggs baked into the dough symbolizing the blood of
Christ. Easter reaches its climax at midnight Saturday night as priests intone “Christ
is risen” and fireworks explode throughout the city. That morning we witnessed
hundreds of crockery pots being thrown to the streets from balconies at precisely 11am,
symbolizing the end of the long Lenten fast and the beginning of a weekend of feasting.
The Greeks sure can throw a party!
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Corfu Town at Easter |
Marching parades on Easter |
Breaking of the "PO" |
At Gouvia Marina, we met new cruiser friends from the States, Ty and
Suzanne Geisemann on board LIBERTY. Amazingly we had been told by mutual friends in South
Carolina to keep an eye out – and here they are! Suzanne is an accomplished author
having published several books on cruising, and we thoroughly enjoyed the company of these
former “Navy Officers”!!
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LIBERTY at anchor in Corfu Town |
Suzanne and Ty with RUDY |
We took an afternoon and drove to the west coast of Corfu to
Palaiokastritsa, a place with stunning cliffs and breathtaking views of the sea. With the
exception of Judy, the group climbed to the monastery of Angelokastro, a ruined 13th
century fortress situated high in the cliffs. Liberty is headed to Croatia now, but we
hope to rendezvous in Turkey next fall. You can read more about Liberty by clicking on
this web link: http://www.libertysails.com/index.html
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Angelocastro fortress |
Palaiokastritsa Monastery |
As we prepared to check out of Gouvia Marina – after a wonderful
hospitable stay, we were informed by port officials that as non-EU citizens we are liable
for a Greek tax imposed on yachts staying longer than 90 days. This was a surprise as the
tax is not explained or documented on any official papers. Several years ago, Greece
imposed this tax on all yachts, and the European Union authorities in Brussels ruled
against it forcing Greece to rescind the tax. However, on non-EU yachts, Greek has decided
to continue the illegal practice. Four American yachts, one Australian yacht, and two
Canadian yachts, are among the casualties we personally know from Gouvia Marina. The
Gouvia marina management is very sympathetic and has helped us contact the Minister of
Tourism in Athens.
You can read the latest update about this on NOONSITE: http://www.noonsite.com/ Stay tuned ladies and
gentlemen!
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Doug and Judy Decker |
Judy doing "knee" therapy! |
Fair weather came and coaxed us from the dock on May 15th
and we had a lovely motor sail to the island of Paxoi. The spelling of Greek words seems
to vary according to who translates them. . . so you may see Paxi, Paxos, Paxoi. We were
thrilled to be at anchor again and didn’t drop the dinghy into the water for two
days.
 Next stop was the island of Levkas (or
Lefkas or Lefkada!) We motor sailed in very light winds that pushed us along at almost
seven knots! In mid-afternoon the winds built to 22 knots as we approached the dicey north
entrance of the Levkas Channel. The island is connected to mainland Greece by a tiny
spit of land and ancient canal. A bridge swings to the side on the hour to permit yachts
to pass through. Our adrenaline surged as we held our position with two other yachts in
the shallow entrance awaiting the horn signaling the opening of the bridge. Whew. Another
hour through the flatland of the canal area and we can drop the hook!
We anchored midway down Levkas Island in the keyhole-type
lagoon of Nidri. No matter the wind or waves from the ferry wash, the water in the
anchorage was always perfectly calm. It was a delightful and hot three night stay.
Everything you need can be found in Nidri town. We made a couple of new friends some of
whom have heard Doug’s morning weather broadcast on the Mediterranean Cruiser’s
Net at 5:30z channel 8122 MHz.
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Swinging bridge at Levkas Canal |
Limerence at anchor in Nidri |
Nidri, Levkas Island |
Before leaving Levkas, we took a dinghy ride across the bay to the
infamous private Onassis Island of Skorpios, his personal hideaway for his wife Jacqueline
Kennedy Onassis and her children. The lush island is a park and we could see gardeners
tending the grounds as well as the tiny beach cottage Jackie is said to have preferred.
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Vathi, Ithaka |
Bay of Vathi Ithaka |
Calm seas and no wind found us motoring four hours to Ithaka the
legendary homeland of Odysseus who wandered the Mediterranean in his sailing ship after
the war in Troy. The seas were so calm we never pulled out our genoa sail. We enjoyed
wonderful views of Meganisi Island as we motored in the channel dividing the two islands.
As we approached the famous island we could smell the Cyprus and Eucalyptus trees! The
colorful village of the capital, Vathi, was completely rebuilt after a devastating
earthquake in 1953. Because it’s been declared to be a traditional settlement, all
the new buildings match the existing style. We took several bicycle rides around the long
horseshoe shaped harbor. Noted for funneling severe wind gusts through the mountains,
Vathi was kind to us and we experienced calm balmy weather.
Tomorrow we make a longer passage (52 miles) to Patras in the
Gulf of Patras which will put us in a great position to carry on to the Gulf of Corinth.
Fair winds friends,
Judy and Doug
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